Our long drive across the states with cousins NT and DT eventually brought us to the beautiful detached red brick house of a slim, elderly black man. The building was crammed with fine antiques, including a handsome marquetry grandfather clock.

Best of all was the view from the front door. At first I thought I thought that the house looked out directly to the sea. However, this was a huge freshwater lake. Our host was surprised when I asked if he ever took a boat out into the water to go fishing. Even though the lake was teeming with marine life, he had never considered it a source of fresh food.