Although I had no idea what I was doing here, I recognised the familiar Harris landscape: islands, hills and the single track road, the perfect combination for cycling holidays by tandem. The official pushed open the roadside gate and led us across the machair down to the low cliff edge. He pointed at the beach to the south, identifying it as “Seilebost, the most beautiful beach in the Outer Hebrides”. I was just about to argue that I knew another beach even more beautiful than this one just a few miles north when he interrupted to reveal the real purpose of our encounter. The interrogation would end when we confessed to the murder of the 30 individuals whose bodies had recently washed up on the shore.