We dug with our hands into the soft coastal soil. There we found multiple white, pock-marked, hollow, spherical objects the size of miniature rugby balls. They looked a bit like animal skulls, but TPR told me that they belonged to the gun emplacements on the clifftops.

Later I wandered over to the cliff. It was so narrow that I was astonished that anyone had built anything there. I almost dropped into the waves below when I peered over the edge to look at the birds nesting on the rock ledges beneath me.