I crossed the bridge over the Thames to track down a café. A friendly man nearby introduced himself to me as Ed and joined me in my quest for lunch. When nothing suitable could be found on the north bank of the river I followed Ed into his car and we set off to drive the full length of the Outer Hebrides.

“My granny used to live in Luskentyre, so I know this area well”, I boasted proudly to my new friend. The poor man had no way of knowing that I was lying.